I'm in a FEDEX office in downtown LA on the last afternoon of my trip. Since my last post I've done the following :-
Tues 25th - Walked down Hollywood Boulevard and Sunset Strip. Sunset Strip is a dump now - why it was so legendary in the sixties I'll never know. Sat for a while and read, then caught the bus back. Had a stroke of luck - there was a guy on the bus with a bag from Amoeba Records, which I was hoping to find. Went to Amoeba - was not impressed that they didn't have a restroom as I was dying for a crap (there are no public toilets anywhere in LA). At any rate, looked round the shop, got some CDs, then got the bus back to the hotel.
Wed 26th - Had to change rooms today. Took the opportunity to fully pack my case, emptying the car. Discovered that I had to jettison one or two things in order to come in under the weight restriction. Moved into my new room, then drove up into Laurel Canyon. I don't know how all those druggy singer-songwriters in the sixties managed to live up there - nowadays you aren't even allowed to smoke a cigarette outside in the hills due to the fire risk ! LA is such a place of rapid contrasts - you drive straight up from a dump like the Strip into this exclusive area of mansions, close-cropped lawns etc. Had lunch at a viewpoint overlooking the city - very impressive. Then drove back via Beverley Hills and had a nap in the hotel as I was very tired - I think the effect of all the drving had caught up with me, plus I still had the after-effects of my cold. Went out for a walk; not very scenic but the exercise was good.
Thurs 27th - Came to the Downtown area. Huge skyscrapers, opulent shops, yet so close to areas of utter depravation. LA is exciting but it has no heart - a bit like London has become now. Cold has now gone although stomach is dodgy - must be all that Bud Light ! Went to the Grammy Museum, which wasn't up to much, although it had an interesting George Harrison "Living In The Material World" exhibition, plus a set of drum pads upon which I did my Ginger Baker bit ! Had a light lunch - tummy trouble as I said - and then went into the central area to read. Looked round the Macys Shopping Complex - was hoping to have a piss, but here you have to buy something before they let you use the loo. A cold, cynical, mercenary touch. Will sit and read for a bit before heading back.
Overall I'm very pleased to have had a good look at LA but can't say I have much affection for the place. It is built totally around the needs of the motorist - you only get very brief 20-second slots to cross these massive boulevards. There are no public parks, unlike all the other cities I've visited. The gap between poverty and decadant opulence is so glaring. I'll be glad to be out of the place tomorrow.
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